The Rams of Richmond Island
The Rams of Richmond Island
the bonus newsletter of the month.
In case you missed it: Gadabout Maine is now a 3x a month newsletter. You’ll receive newsletters on the 1st & 15th - plus a bonus one (like this one!) thrown in each month!
The bonus newsletter won’t host a paywalled section (featuring additional adventures + promos for paid subscribers) as the newsletters on the 1st & 15th do. The bonus newsletters will feature one adventure + the comment thread will be open to ALL subscribers - so, let’s chat together!
Richmond Island, off the coast of Cape Elizabeth, is 226 acres in size. The island's first known settler was Walter Bagnall, a “wicked fellow” that operated a fishing station and had a thing for stashing coveted gold coins in old rum jugs. After Bagnall met his fate, Richmond Island remained a settlement and was established as a fishing and trading station by John Winter in 1632.
And since 1913, the island has been privately owned by the Sprague Corporation and Sprague Family. Generously, if a permit is obtained by emailing the corporation, guests are allowed to camp at one of the four campsites on the island. There is no running water or toilets and visitors must pack in their own food/water and then pack out all refuse, garbage and waste. The island has no permanent inhabitants - only island caretakers that are present from May-October, with their main duty being to maintain the island. The only structures are the keeper's quarters, a cabin, a potato storage 'cellar', and a boat dock located on the northwestern shore.
Daytrippers are also allowed - but first, of course, you’ll need to reach the island by boat. The island dock is private, not intended for public use, so pulling up on one of the beaches by kayak/paddleboard is the best way to go.
I’ve dreamed about adventuring to this island for years: pushing off from beautiful Kettle Cove, kayaking the 30 minute journey across the open sea, traipsing along the 2.3 loop trail around the perimeter, searching for shells at Clam Cove Beach, one of four beaches on the island. My greatest motivating factor in visiting, however, hasn’t been seabreezes, seashells and quiet cliff walks: I’ve longed to catch a glimpse of the herd of 50+ Black Faced Scottish Rams that roam the island.
You might remember, from just last month, one of the Richmond Island rams was on the loose in Cape Elizabeth. The 150 pound ram escaped from it’s pen after being relocated to the mainland from the island, where it had been placed temporarily to graze. The ram made the rounds at Crescent Beach State Park, the Broad Cove neighborhood, and Two Lights State Park, where it was finally captured after a week+ on the run.
When I heard the story, all I could think was: he’s just trying to find a way back to his free-wheeling island buddies! I pictured him strolling alone along Crescent Beach, eyeing Richmond just off in the distance, contemplating the journey and if his little legs could manage the open sea. Eventually finding his way to Two Lights, feeling confident in his ablities, surveying the best entry point to begin the long swim back. And once finally ready, ready to get back to leisurely grazing, endless free roaming and good times with the herd, he was captured. Alas, he won’t get back to Richmond Island with his BFFs until November.
But I digress. My favorite adventure pal, Holly, was up for the journey, so we rented a tandem kayak from Portland Paddle to visit the sweet faced rams frolicking in the sun. The kayak rental process was super efficient, easy - and the staff, without so much as breaking a sweat, loaded the gigantic tandem sea kayak on top of the car in seconds. We set off for Kettle Cove, giggling out of excitement - but also out of realization that there was *not a chance* we’d be able to get that massive kayak back up on the car ourselves once our adventure wrapped. But that was a problem for our afternoon selves.
It was a smooth trip, with the total paddling time clocking in right at 30 minutes as we landed in Broad Cove, pulling our kayak high up on the beach. Broad Cove is the easiest spot to land - it’s directly across from Kettle Cove and the waves pushed us softly in.
I felt transported the second I stepped out of the kayak. It’s a classic Maine island - rocky cliffs, cove protected pocket beaches - but the supremely lush, untouched greenery surrounding the winding path truly resembles Ireland - or like you’ve taken up residence in a Wyeth painting.
Following the perimeter path we:
Jumped (and shrieked) while avoiding a small green snake on the path.
Jumped (and shrieked) while avoiding pockets of posion ivy along the edges of the path. We came out completely unscathed, but even so, next time I’d wear a better shoe + sock + pant situation for utmost protection.
Jumped (and shrieked) while avoiding (what appeared to be) a brown tail moth caterpillar. If (unlike me) you have steered clear of the fiery rage of a rash that comes from these little guys, consider yourself lucky. Again, came out completely unscathed, so who knows if it was one - I certainly wouldn’t, as I SPRINT whenever I see any caterpillar nowadays.
Lots of jumping & shrieking & giggling because: the island is wonderfully, wholly remote! We didn’t see one other person on the island, no boats attempting to land, full beaches entirely to ourselves. Wild raspberries accompany you along the trails and the smoothest of rocks, seaglass and seashells await you on the shore. It’s a slice of free, uninterrupted, wild paradise. Only to be made better by…
…some of the cutest 50+ Black Faced Scottish Rams that you could ever hope to see!
Noticing the waves starting to pick up, we made the decision to head back to the mainland - and just as we rounded the corner back to our kayak, we spotted the herd. They were happily roaming, snacking amongst the small, rolling green hills in the distance. Ireland, I tell you.
They are timid, and sneaking up on them will only spook them, so we gave them some proper distance. I gave a salute to the herd in honor of the Cape Elizabeth ram on the run, the runaway, the fearless fugitive - he’ll be back, boys, save some grazing for him.
The ride back was a bit rougher, but with the waves on our side, we got back to the mainland in only 17 minutes. Feeling like superheroes, arms warmed up from the paddling, filled with adventure fuel, we were determined to load the kayak back up ourselves.
That lasted for approximately 45 seconds. Two teenagers on a stroll with their Mom at Kettle Cove happily came to our rescue, and though the Mom insisted we didn’t need to, we thanked our helpers with some ice cream money to hit up Kettle Cove Creamery. An excellent idea, we thought. So we did the same.
It was one of the rare sunny days (that we can all count on one hand) that we’ve gotten in Maine this summer. Alas, it was a Tuesday, I had a million things to do, and a camp pick-up for my kiddo at 3PM. But as I caught the drips of my ice cream, my serotonin levels increasing with the warm sun, I thought of my ram on the lam friend: sometimes you’ve just gotta break free.
Have you been to Richmond Island?
Or are you intrigued with the journey but have some q’s?
Or…. just want to chat & tell me what adventure you’ve enjoyed most in Gadabout Maine’s newsletters & what you’d like to see more of?
The comment thread is open to all readers and I’d absolutely love to chat with you & get to know some of Gadabout Maine’s readers!
Thanks for being here - I appreciate you!
Ooh this is good to know about - I’ve always been curious about the sheep on Little Nash Island, but I don’t think that’s possible to visit
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/08/travel/lens-sheep-island-maine.html?smid=nytcore-ios-share&referringSource=articleShare